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Traditional Provencal aioli recipe


Aioli is a garlic mayonnaise made of garlic, egg, lemon juice, and olive oil. In Provence, aioli (or more formally, Le Grand Aioli) also designates a complete dish consisting of various boiled vegetables (usually carrots, potatoes, and green beans), boiled fish (normally salt cod), and boiled eggs served with the aioli sauce.

While modern cooks have taken to making aioli in a blender or food processor, the traditional method is to use a mortar and pestle which gives the sauce a creamier texture. The technique described below comes from J.B. Reboul's classic cookbook, La Cuisiniere Provencale, published in 1897 and widely considered to be the bible of Provencal cooking.

Take two cloves of garlic per person , peel them, place them in a mortar, reduce them to a paste with a pestle; add a pinch of salt, an egg yolk and pour in the oil in a thin thread while turning with the pestle. Take care to add the oil very slowly and, during this time, never stop turning; you should obtain a think pommade. After having added about three or four tablespoons of oil, add the juice of a lemon and a teaspoon of tepid water, continue to add oil little by little and, when the pommade again becomes too thick, add another few drops of water, without which it falls apart, so to speak, the oil separating itself from the rest.

If, despite all precautions, this accident should occur, one must remove everything from the mortar, put into it another egg yolk, a few drops of lemon juice and, little by little, spoonful by spoonful, add the unsuccessful aioli while turning the pestle constantly. This one calls "reinstating the aioli" (relever l'aioli).

An aioli for seven to eight persons will absorb something over two cups of oil.

In his similarly classic book, Simple French Food, Richard Olney recommends toning down the recipe for non-Provençal palates unaccustomed to such a heavy dose of garlic. He suggests four cloves of garlic for an aioli serving 8 people. He also recommends starting with two egg yolks before starting to add the oil.

Photo courtesy of Chris John Beckett

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Added on: Jul 12, 2007 in Category: From the Garden

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2. Caesar salad recipe
  Ingredients
1 clove garlic
4-6 anchovy fillets
3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
1 egg
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
4 slices bread, cut thin
2 tablespoons butter
2 heads of romaine

Procedure
Mash the garlic in a large wooden salad bowl, rubbing it well around the sides. Let it stand thus for a few minutes, then scrape out and discard the garlic pulp. Put the anchovy fillets and cheese into the bowl and mash them to a smooth paste. Add raw egg to the anchovy-cheese mixture and work smooth. If you are concerned about the quality of your eggs for raw use, you may coddle it by cooking it in fast-boiling water for one minute, just enough to cut the edge of rawness. Blend in the oil and vinegar. Neither salt nor pepper is needed.

Make croutons by buttering the bread on both sides, cubing it small, and browning the croutons in the oven until crisp.

Wash the romaine well, dry and crisp it. Break it into the bowl, sprinkle on the croutons and toss lightly in the dressing until every leaf is coated and the dressing absorbed by the croutons.

Serves 4 to 6.

Recipe source: adapted from House & Garden, June 1956

Photo credit: Michael Newman
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3. Seeing October in a new light
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When T.S. Eliot wrote "April is the cruelest month," he might have added, "October is seriously underrated."

Consider those two months. We expect from both a temperature range midway between hot and cold, with unpredictable doses of either. But gardeners, especially, embrace April with exaggerated hope and cheer, oblivious to the imminent onset of blistering heat, drought and bolted lettuce. By October many edge wearily and even gratefully into the shadow of oncoming winter, forgetting to enjoy the gardening year's best weather.

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Article copyright of Barbara Damrosch. Reprinted with permission.
Photo credit: Veronica Lynn
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4. December 2007 Newsletter
   

Dear Kitchen Gardener,

There are
different ways of knowing whether winter has arrived.  If you're in
Maine, the joke goes, you know because the driving actually improves as
the potholes fill up with snow.  You can also tell the old
fashioned way by looking at the thermometer. Mine read 8 wintry degrees
(-14 C) this morning.  Consulting the calendar is another popular,
albeit controversial, way.  Astonomically speaking, winter is due
this Friday, but,

meteorologically, the calendar says that winter already arrived the
first week of December.  Hmmm.
As with other
perplexing life questions, I like to turn to my compost pile for
guidance.  Northern gardeners like to say that winter hasn't really
arrived until your compost pile is frozen solid and hasn't really left
until your pile has thawed completely.  Up until last week,
my hot pile of
leaves, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps was still chugging along
nicely, melting its way through all the white stuff the sky has been
dropping on us since late November.  Coincidentally, up until last
week, we were also still harvesting salad greens from our cold frames,
arguably the best-tasting greens of the year (but I admit that part of
this is due to the "it's-winter-and-I-am-still-eating-from-my-garden!"
factor which is one nature's best flavor enhancers.)
The past few days
of snow, ice, and bitter cold, however, have changed things remarkably,
putting my compost pile's

soil bacteria and worms on the defensive. If you look closely at the
photo above taken earlier today, you can see a bit of melting taking
place, but I think it's safe for me to oil up my compost fork's handle
and put it to bed for the winter. 

This winter was interesting in how suddenly it came
upon us in my area.  One day, I was outside in a light sweater
raking leaves and

planting garlic, the next day I was all bundled up with a snow
shovel in my hands. 
A

gardening article in the New York Times a few years back suggested
that instead of talking about global warming, we should be using the
term "global weirding".  While the trend is definitely toward
warming, there'll be a lot of weirdness along the way.  Speaking of
the New York Times, I've been following their coverage of local food
issues these days and even managed to contribute

2 cents of my own to the debate through a letter to the editor published
in last Sunday's edition. 

Another item in
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as a "Food
and Society Fellow" by the Thomas Jefferson Agricultural Institute. 
I'm pretty excited about this and I don't excite easily.  That
award and your generous support will help me to keep KGI going and
growing, even during the dark, cold days of winter.  

Don't worry,
though, about the award going to my head, at least not this winter. 
It will need to penetrate a thick wool hat first.   




Happy holidays,
 

 
PS: I'm busy making your
holiday gift.  It's not so much a new gift, but a better version of
an old one, a gift that will allow you to grow as gardener, learn new
things, contribute your knowledge to the gardening commons, connect with
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yet?  It might be too late for the holidays, but will be just in
time for those of you itching to talk about gardening before the ground
and the weather allow you to do any. 
 
PPS: Stay tuned in January as
a "special KGI correspondent" will be reporting from Argentina on a
school garden project that we're helping to launch. 
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