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Interview with food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins
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Food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins has established herself as one of the authoritative voices on Mediterranean cuisine. She has lived and traveled extensively within the region and divides her time between homes in Maine and Tuscany. We recently caught up with her to talk with her latest book Cucina del Sole.
KGI: In the intro to your book, you describe the essence of Southern Italian cuisine as the simplicity of “natural ingredients” made using “straightforward, uncomplicated techniques.” What are a few of the ingredients and flavors that define the region for you and what makes them different from their counterparts available elsewhere?
NHJ: The natural ingredients I'm thinking of are the products of Southern Italian fields and gardens, the vegetables and fruits especially, that have such extraordinary depths of flavor, quite unlike those available elsewhere in the world. I put this down primarily to geography--also climate to a certain extent. Mild rainy winters and hot dry summers seem to be ideal for vegetable gardening. But the volcanic geography of much of the south--I think especially of the areas around Etna in Sicily and Vesuvius in Campania, but also, lesser known, the Monte Vulture in Basilicata. In Campania they call the soil arapilla and it means specifically soil that evolves from volcanic ash. In some places it goes down as much as three meters and it is peculiarly rich in minerals. That to me is one source of the flavor of tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius or the great array of citrus from around Etna, not to mention the wine grapes from all three regions. Puglia's geography is not volcanic but it represents another advantage--a porous limestone karst that soaks up rainwater and acts as a giant sponge beneath the fields of Puglia, where a large portion of Europe's organic vegetables are raised. Obviously everywhere in the world there are unique combinations of geography and climate that lead to the production of certain vegetables, but I think there are few places where such high quality is so consistent around the year and across the board as it is in the south of Italy.
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| 2. |
Brain Boosters
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A child with good brain
health has the opportunity to be more successful in their schoolwork, and that
translates to a better...
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| 3. |
Tomato inspiration
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Are you harvesting tomatoes hand over fist and looking for some fresh ideas on how to prepare them? Well, the global blogosphere is here to help. Below are a few recipes recently posted to some food blogs that you will probably want to get to know better. Enjoy.
From Simply Recipes:
White Beans and Cherry Tomato Salad
Gazpacho
From Chocolate & Zucchini:
Panzanella
From Kayn's Kitchen:
Tomato and Cucumber Salad with Mint, Feta, Lemon, and Thyme
Slow roasted tomatoes
From David Lebovitz:
Marinated Tomato Salad
From Just Hungry:
Tabbouleh with Heirloom Tomatoes and Shiso
From Champagne Taste:
Roasted tomato sauce
From A Veggie Venture:
Baked Eggs with Tomato and Spinach
Photo by D. Knisely
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The last of summer's bounty
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By Barbara Damrosch, published Thursday, October 20, 2007 in The Washington Post
This time of year I'm like the women in Jean-François Millet's painting "The Gleaners," bent over the mown fields in their kerchiefs and long skirts, gathering scraps of leftover grain. It's completely irrational. My garden is still bursting with fresh crops for fall: spinach, kale, leeks and a dozen or so others. Winter squash is just starting to cure in the shed, and I haven't even dug the root crops yet. But somehow the oncoming winter brings out the frugal peasant in me, and I'm gripped with the urge to salvage what is left of summer's bounty.
The last of the unpicked snap beans have seeds swelling in their pods. Better not waste them. I spend an hour shelling them and another gathering the last of the old corn ears, stripping them of their kernels and adding them to the beans for succotash. There's some over-the-hill fennel, too woody for salads but a perfectly good candidate for long, slow braising.
A row of broccoli plants and another of zucchini are ready to be yanked out and composted. But shouldn't I leave them a week longer to see if they'll pump out a few more stir-fries' worth of food? I stroll through the garden, assessing what is left. I want one more dish of fried squash blossoms, one more platter of tomato salad before frost threatens. "Look, it's fall," I tell myself. "Get over it."
Then I spot the bolted lettuce. Some of the leafy towers are nearly three feet tall. Where I've harvested heads, the stems have regrown with multiple spires, like Notre Dame. Ready to rip them out, I remember something I read about once on a favorite Web site called L'Atelier Vert ( http://www.frenchgardening.com). Although the leaves of bolted lettuce are so bitter only the starving would eat them, the stems are said to be quite tasty. Curious, I cut some, strip them of their leaves and bring them indoors. Not even bothering to peel them, I cut them all into half-inch pieces on the diagonal. I would expect them to be tough, but they are succulent and easy to slice.
I saute them on low heat for 20 minutes or so in French walnut oil. They begin to exude the milky sap that gives lettuce its botanical name ( Latuca), then they slowly caramelize until they are crisp. I heap them onto a plate with coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper. They are delectable, more sweet than bitter, but with a little bite. If I leave the roots in the ground, maybe they will sprout a few more meals like this one before the season finally comes to an end.
Article copyright of Barbara Damrosch. Reprinted with permission.
Image: "Les Glaneuses" by Jean-François Millet, 1857.
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September 2007 Newsletter
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To read the full newsletter, please see: http://www.kitchengardeners.org/newsletterseptember07.html
Dear Kitchen Gardener,
I hope you're either enjoying or planning bumper harvests. We
harvested a great crop of participation and awareness raising at this
year's Kitchen Garden Day celebration and have put together
a short video to share some of what happened that day.
While it'd be nice to bask in
the warm glow of those harvests, October is too busy a gardening month
to kick back. In Maine, there's
pesto and
sauerkraut to be made, squash to be cured, apples to be picked, and
tomatoes to be canned or frozen. October also offers some of the
crispest, best-tasting salads of the year just ready to be
cut, rinsed, and
spun. Garlic traditionally goes in the ground on or around
Columbus Day, but that day seems to be slipping back a week or two in
our brave new, globally-warmed world.
October's also a month for
adding new life to tired beds through the addition of compost. For
those of you who don't have a heaping pile of chocolate cake-like
compost to dig into, autumn's a great time, the best time in fact, to
start a new pile using all those vines and stems that have stopped
delivering, fallen leaves, and the lush, nitrogen-rich grass clippings
that suburban lawns so effortlessly produce in the fall.
The fall is also the best
time for planning and starting new garden projects. Last week, I
paid a visit to the French School of Maine to help them identify a site
for a new "potager". Monsieur le Directeur and a
group of professeurs directed me to a rolling,
field available for the school's use just a three minute's walk from the
school. I felt a bit envious glancing over the grassy expanse,
doing quick math in my head at all the food that such a large plot could
generate. While the field was gorgeous and had very tall weeds
(usually a reliable sign of soil fertility), I urged them to scope out a
spot closer to the school. What holds for home gardens holds for
school gardens too: the closer to the kitchen, the better.
We ultimately chose to site
the new garden in a high profile and high traffic spot right in front of
the school. Not only is it the best spot in terms of sunlight and
promixity, but it sends a strong message that health and good food are
high on the school's agenda. Once they've got their potager
dug and their systems in place, they can consider turning the larger
piece of land into a true farm capable of supplying their cafeteria.
This experience and some
others I've been a part of recently have got me thinking about where our
schools' priorities are now and perhaps ought to be. A few years
back, Maine boasted being the first state to prepare its children for
the "information age" by
providing every 7th
and 8th grade student and teacher with a laptop computer.
Several years into the program, it's amazing to see how comfortable and
skilled Maine's young people have become with this important tool.
This, of course, got me
pondering new "firsts" for Maine and other forward-looking states or
regions, in the US or abroad. Which state or region will be the
first to prepare its students for the coming "ecology age" by mandating
that every primary or intermediate school in its area have an organic
kitchen garden and age-appropriate garden curriculum? Surely,
there is no better way to teach health and healthy eating than to engage
young people in the process of heathy food production.
As with the laptop initative,
such an idea would surely encounter resistance, but what revolutionary
idea hasn't?
Wishing you a delicious
October,
PS: It's still not too late
to win your chance at over $1000 in prizes through our
Grow-Off Show-Off Contest, but the clock is ticking. As an
added bonus, the first 50 entries automatically win a free subscription
to Mother Earth News. Deadline for entries is November 1st.
Note sure what you can enter, then see
here.
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