Get Hungry: Star chefs align for March of Dimes dinner and auction
Chefs clamor to help out at March of Dimes auction.
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Added on: Oct 31, 2007 in
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Regional Cusine
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Shanghai Palace
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Shanghai Palace advertises Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese food. Right away, this gives me pause. Why do they serve all three? Why can't they just pick one? I like simplicity and order, and I find this "tri-specialty" cuisine puzzling. Two bites into dinner, however, the skeptic in me feels quite silly. All that ranting was for nothing. Shanghai Palace serves Chinese food favorites like kung pao chicken ($8.50) and moo shu pork ($8.95 while deftly offering Thai chicken panang ($8.50) and Vietnamese pho soup ($6.50) for the more adventurous diner.
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Interview with food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins has established herself as one of the authoritative voices on Mediterranean cuisine. She has lived and traveled extensively within the region and divides her time between homes in Maine and Tuscany. We recently caught up with her to talk with her latest book Cucina del Sole.
KGI: In the intro to your book, you describe the essence of Southern Italian cuisine as the simplicity of “natural ingredients” made using “straightforward, uncomplicated techniques.” What are a few of the ingredients and flavors that define the region for you and what makes them different from their counterparts available elsewhere?
NHJ: The natural ingredients I'm thinking of are the products of Southern Italian fields and gardens, the vegetables and fruits especially, that have such extraordinary depths of flavor, quite unlike those available elsewhere in the world. I put this down primarily to geography--also climate to a certain extent. Mild rainy winters and hot dry summers seem to be ideal for vegetable gardening. But the volcanic geography of much of the south--I think especially of the areas around Etna in Sicily and Vesuvius in Campania, but also, lesser known, the Monte Vulture in Basilicata. In Campania they call the soil arapilla and it means specifically soil that evolves from volcanic ash. In some places it goes down as much as three meters and it is peculiarly rich in minerals. That to me is one source of the flavor of tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius or the great array of citrus from around Etna, not to mention the wine grapes from all three regions. Puglia's geography is not volcanic but it represents another advantage--a porous limestone karst that soaks up rainwater and acts as a giant sponge beneath the fields of Puglia, where a large portion of Europe's organic vegetables are raised. Obviously everywhere in the world there are unique combinations of geography and climate that lead to the production of certain vegetables, but I think there are few places where such high quality is so consistent around the year and across the board as it is in the south of Italy.
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